Mughal Necklines You Need To Know


Good evening All About Sana readers! How are you all doing? We had a wet weekend here in California but, today it was nice and sunny. Yesterday was The 61st Annual Grammy Awards ceremony & it was so much fun to watch the red carpet. While the fashions were “safe”, I thought it was the musical stars that stole the show! It was so nice to meet young stars like Camila Cabello, whom I met when we were both young but, it was uber fun to reunite with some of my former students on screen. I hate to admit it, but it has taken me several months to compile a list on YouTube of students I taught from 2006 – 2010. Especially since I met them as 4th graders & they have certainly grown into beautiful young adults. Whether you guys are part of a boy band, one half of a singing duo, or shining like a solo star, I am ecstatic to see I have had an influence on you. Just remember to stay together, get married and have kids soon. I will be very pleased to witness those successes as well.

*Please note that Bunto Kazmi did not provide any fashions for The Grammy’s 2019. But, I am looking forward to seeing who else is involved in the award season 2019 from Pakistan this year.

Mughal Necklines

I have talked a lot about Pakistan as a democracy, its involvement in what I call “The Great Big War” & a bit about Pakistan’s states or provinces. In the future, I hope to teach my readers more about my beautiful country’s history. The Indian Subcontinent, as it was known founded & called during Abu’l-Fath Jalal-ud-din Muhammad Akbar times, is pretty vast & boasts a very rich history and culture. Please note, that Wikipedia is pretty inaccurate when it comes to the dates of the Mughal Empire, so please read through it only to take in the gist. If you are really interested in learning more, I suggest you travel to Pakistan or any of its states and provinces really and talk to people to get to know about the vast region.

The Mughals weren’t big on layering since it was so hot in the Indian Subcontinent & since layering clothes as a concept is very European. However, the Mughal kings & his royal court & courtesans (female relatives) took great pleasure in playing with other aspects of their fashions. How? They focused on their official needs and the resources that were available to them at the time.

While a few silhouettes (see here) were well established, it was the play on embroidery & flamboyant fabrics that took center stage. I will be discussing those today.



Takht-e-taus was probably the most complicated neckline of all comparable to angrakha really. The idea was to create necklines according to thrones of the ruling kings. Each king served for decades and had a neckline and throne designed for him, which he cherished (hopefully. Yikes!) for his lifetime. Hence there is no one way to design a Takht-e-taus but, it is pretty fun imagining the idea take shape.



The chogha neckline is similar to an Angrakha but, contains a higher neck. Reserved for less formal official meetings, it has a very similar cut and stitch to an angrakha.



Angrakha is the second neckline, which was reserved for daily wear and appropriate for both men and women. Reserved only for a peshwas or a frock silhouette top, the angrakha can tie or button on the left side of the breast or the right side of the breast. This neckline can contain embroidery as well, although it really depended on the occasion and the fabrics chosen for the Angrakha or peshwas (;)).

Sherwani/High Neck

The sherwani neckline or high neck is a neckline appropriate for men and women. Given the less complicated nature and look of this neckline, it is appropriate for a wide range of occasions and varies accordingly. It really depends on the creativity of your darzi or master saab how he wants to place the embroidery or what fabrics he wants to USE.

A Choli Necklines


This neckline was reserved for women only. The courtesans of King Muhammad Shahjahan aka King Muhammed Akbar were “proverbial” jealous of ornate necklines or maybe they hated the jewels they had to wear all the time that they asked him to ask his tailor (Darzi) to design a neckline for them. So with the help of King Muhammed Shahjahan and his tailor, a silhouette was made instead.

The idea was to keep the neckline simple and have a top fitted tightly around the chest only to be buttoned together in the back or front. The length of the choli depended on the age or “maturity” of the woman and is not reflective of her body type as popularly believed. The idea is that if you are young, it is okay to show skin to show tenderness, but a longer more covered-up choli shows comfort & pride.